AUTHOR: JINNY FLEISCHMAN
Wednesday, December 18, 2002; Section: Food; Page F01

One day last spring my husband and I decided it was time to clean out the freezer. Now, ours is not the average freezer. We give cooking classes, and the freezer was full of the results of several classes -- lamb shanks, beef Bourguignonne and stuffed Sicilian veal roll to mention just a few. It had all just added up. What to do? We decided to share the fruits of the freezer by entertaining our friends. Main courses were frozen in abundance, but we also had in our storehouse a cheesecake, a chocolate pound cake and cheese puffs. We added only a selection of cheeses, several loaves of different breads, a green salad and a large rice pilaf.

It was a great dinner. We were able to enjoy ourselves and so did our guests. But that was just the tip of the iceberg. It occurred to us then that a freezer dinner would save us some night in the midst of the busy holiday season.

The goal of the freezer dinner is simple. You want to have a meal that is sufficient for 6 to 8 people and that will require you simply to buy some good bread and make a basic starch and salad the day of the event. Everything else is on ice.

Your menu does not have to be exotic. In fact, foods that can be made in advance are the slow braised meats and vegetables that taste so delicious in the fall and winter season.

So carve out a few hours now. Make this meal ahead of time and enjoy your Christmas or New Year's feasts, as your guests surely will.

Carrot-Ginger Soup
(6 to 8 servings)

This subtly flavored soup provides a simple, elegant first course.

Make Ahead: May refrigerate or freeze the finished soup. To reheat, do not defrost; place the frozen soup in a large pot and heat gently over very low heat until warmed through. Just prior to serving, increase the heat to medium and bring the soup to a gentle simmer.

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
3 pounds small carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 tablespoon peeled and grated ginger root
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
6 cups chicken stock or broth
2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a large pot over medium heat, heat the butter and oil until the butter melts. Add the onion, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion slices are lightly browned at the edges, 20 to 25 minutes. Add the carrots, ginger, cumin and stock or broth, increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover partially and simmer until the carrots can be easily pierced with a fork, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat.

If you have an immersion blender, blend the soup in the pot.

If you are using a blender, set the soup aside to cool for at least 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the carrots and onions to a food processor or blender, add about 1 cup of the cooking liquid and puree until smooth. Return the pureed mixture to the pot and place over medium heat. Add the orange juice and zest and salt and pepper to taste and heat, stirring occasionally, until warmed through. (If not serving immediately, set aside to cool completely. Transfer to a container, cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze for up to 2 weeks.)

To serve, ladle individual portions into dishes.

Per serving (based on 6): 253 calories, 7 gm protein, 34 gm carbohydrates, 11 gm fat, 16 mg cholesterol, 4 gm saturated fat, 268 mg sodium, 7 gm dietary fiber

Boeuf a la Bourguignonne
(6 to 8 servings)

In my opinion, there are three ingredients that make this dish a classic: salt pork, mushrooms and small white onions. You may elect to prepare the stew without them and save yourself some time; you will still have an excellent beef stew, although it will not be a la bourguignonne.

If you do not use salt pork, brown the meat in a mixture of butter and oil (about 4 tablespoons each).

Make Ahead: The stew really should be made at least a day ahead of time and refrigerated overnight, even if you are not going to freeze this dish. This allows the flavors to meld and the excess fat to congeal on the surface for easy removal.

Reheat the thawed or frozen stew over low heat or in a 350-degree oven.

8 ounces salt pork (may substitute bacon), cut into bite-size pieces
20 to 25 small boiling onions, peeled
4-pound chuck roast
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 large yellow onion, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/4 cup flour
1 cup beef stock or broth
750-milliliter bottle red wine, such as Pinot Noir or Syrah
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 pound small white mushrooms, stems discarded
4 tablespoons unsalted butter

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat, cook the salt pork, turning as necessary, until crisp, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel to drain.

Place the skillet with the drippings over medium heat, add the boiling onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. The onions will not brown evenly. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the onions to a dish just large enough to hold them in a single layer. Spoon a few tablespoons of drippings from the skillet over the onions. Set aside.

Cut the beef into 2-inch cubes and season on all sides with salt and pepper to taste.

Return the skillet with the drippings to medium or medium-high heat and cook the beef in batches, being careful not to crowd the pan, until crusty and browned on all sides. Cook about 5 pieces at a time; if you crowd the skillet the beef will not brown well. Transfer the browned beef to a large ovenproof and stovetop-safe casserole or Dutch oven; set aside.

Return the skillet with the drippings to medium heat, add the chopped yellow onion, carrots and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 7 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle the flour evenly over the vegetables and cook, stirring constantly, until the flour just begins to brown and form a paste. Scrape the vegetables into the casserole with the beef.

Return the skillet to medium heat, add the stock or broth and heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or whisk to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Pour the liquid into the casserole with the beef.

Place the casserole over medium-high heat, add the wine and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, add the bay leaf and thyme, cover and transfer to the oven. Cook until the meat is falling-apart tender, about 21/2 hours.

Meanwhile, about 45 minutes before the stew is done, slice the mushroom caps. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Add the mushrooms and do not stir for 3 minutes. Then stir and cook, stirring frequently, just until the mushrooms give up their liquid and the liquid evaporates. Add the mushrooms and the reserved browned boiling onions to the stew, cover, return the stew to the oven and continue to cook for the duration of the 21/2 hours. Remove and discard the bay leaf. (If not serving immediately, set aside to cool completely. Transfer to a container, cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze for up to 2 weeks.)

To serve, either place the dish in the center of the table or ladle individual portions into deep rimmed plates.

Per serving (based on 6): 877 calories, 52 gm protein, 16 gm carbohydrates, 57 gm fat, 197 mg cholesterol, 24 gm saturated fat, 363 mg sodium, 2 gm dietary fiber

Rice Pilaf
(6 to 8 servings)

Here a standard, kid-friendly side dish gains ample flavor from the addition of stock and sauteed onions.

Make Ahead: Saute the onions and rice then remove from the heat and set aside at room temperature for up to several hours. The finished pilaf can rest for up to 15 minutes while you assemble the rest of your meal.

2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced or finely chopped
2 cups rice (long-grain white or basmati)
4 cups chicken or beef stock or broth
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup pine nuts* (may substitute almonds)

In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the butter and oil until the butter melts. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, just until the individual grains are coated with oil. Add the stock or broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low or low and simmer, covered, just until the liquid is absorbed, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (May remove from the heat and cover to keep warm for up to 15 minutes.)

Just prior to serving, add the pine nuts and stir to combine.

* Note: To toast nuts, spread them on a baking sheet and place them in a 350-degree oven, shaking the pan occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes. Watch carefully because nuts will burn quickly.

Per serving (based on 6): 418 calories, 10 gm protein, 49 gm carbohydrates, 22 gm fat, 14 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 165 mg sodium, 4 gm dietary fiber

Salad With Mustard Vinaigrette
(Makes enough for 6 to 8 servings)

I make this vinaigrette with about twice as much mustard as listed below, but I've tempered it for those who aren't fans of pungent. Taste and adjust the amount of mustard as you see fit.

Make Ahead: Typically, ingredients for a vinaigrette should be prepped within several hours of serving and assembled at the last minute. Vinaigrettes made with mustard, however, will hold the emulsion a bit longer and can be made hours ahead of time. Be sure to whisk briefly to recombine just before serving.

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard, or to taste
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 shallot, finely chopped
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Salt to taste (optional)
4 to 6 cups lettuce of choice

In a bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, garlic and shallot. Whisking constantly, gradually add the oil in a steady stream and whisk until completely emulsified. Taste and add more oil or mustard as desired. Finish with pepper and, if desired, salt to taste and whisk to combine.

Rinse the lettuce and pat it completely dry. (It is important that the greens be dry for the vinaigrette to adhere to the lettuce.) Drizzle the vinaigrette over the lettuce and toss gently to coat. They should not be drowning in vinaigrette. Serve immediately.

Per serving (based on 6): 112 calories, 1 gm protein, 2 gm carbohydrates, 12 gm fat, trace cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat, 20 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

Marble Cheesecake
(8 to 12 servings)

This eye-catching dessert is deceptively simple to make. In fact, it is so flavorful that you may use reduced-fat -- but not fat-free -- cream cheese or sour cream.

Make Ahead: The cheesecake is best when made at least 12 hours ahead of time. It will keep several days in the refrigerator and at least a month in the freezer. If frozen, allow it to defrost overnight in the refrigerator.

For the crust:

1 scant cup graham cracker crumbs
4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

For the filling:

16 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
3 eggs
1 pint sour cream (may use low-fat, not fat-free)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 ounces semi-sweet chocolate, melted and cooled slightly

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

In a bowl, combine the crumbs, butter and cinnamon and mix until completely combined. Press the crust into an 8-inch springform pan with sides at least 2 inches deep and bake for 5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

In a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed, combine the cream cheese and sugar and mix until completely incorporated and slightly fluffy. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the sour cream and vanilla and mix until completely incorporated.

Using a rubber spatula, scrape all but about 1/2 cup of the filling over the cooled crumb crust and smooth the top. Set aside.

To the remaining 1/2 cup of filling in the bowl, add the melted chocolate and stir until well combined and no streaks remain. Place spoonfuls of the chocolate batter on top of the cheesecake, spacing them about 11/2 inches apart. Beginning at 1 side of the pan, dip a table knife into the cheesecake (being careful not to reach down to the crust) and swirl the chocolate circles into the plain filling.

Transfer the cheesecake to the oven and bake for 30 minutes. Turn off the oven but leave the cheesecake in the oven for 30 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool to room temperature. Cover tightly and refrigerate until chilled through, at least 8 hours.

To serve, cut the chilled cheesecake into wedges.

Per serving (based on 12): 394 calories, 7 gm protein, 27 gm carbohydrates, 29 gm fat, 123 mg cholesterol, 18 gm saturated fat, 216 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

Jinny Fleischman and her husband, Ed, teach cooking and entertaining classes. She may be reached at www.companycoming.com.